JESLED T8 LED Type A+B Tube Light 3FT, 2520LM, 18W(45W Equivalent), 6000K, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 36 Inch F30T12 Fluorescent Bulb Replacement, Dual Ended, 36” Lighting Tube Fixture (12-Pack)

Under counter lighting

This was my experience replacing the light tube in my 24" 20Watt aquarium fluorescent light. I chose the 6000K color temperature of this replacement to simulate the full sunlight spectrum. Unlike other "daylight" lamps, this particular light is not excessively blue or purplish in color. I also expected the brightness level to be higher than that of aquarium specific lamps.My aquarium light hood was originally manufactured with a ballast and a starter. This was a common method of wiring these fluorescent light hoods. The inclusion of an automatic starter device, instead of the push-to-light switch, allowed the use of a timer to control the lights. I had already replaced the FL tube with an LED type. The original replacement unit did not require that the ballast be removed, just the starter. This time around, I bit the bullet and decided to try this type of LED replacement tube. There are three basic types of LED replacement tubes. Besides the ones that do not require the removal of the ballast, there two types that involve a wiring modification. One kind of replacement LED lamp is powered from just the two pins on one end of the tube. This may require the replacement of the actual sockets on the fixture, and I felt this would involve additional work and wiring. I also did not like that the light tube has to then be inserted in a specific orientation for it to work.The other type is what it is represented here. The lamp is powered by running one wire from the AC to each socket. Removing the ballast and the starter from the circuit was a rather simple modification. The existing switch and socket wiring was long enough to connect to each of the lamp and no additional parts were required. I went ahead and also removed the socket for the original starter and, since the fixture is subject to moisture, I sealed all of the access and mounting holes leading to the exterior. The light was never meant to be waterproof, but I didn't want any water accidentally spilled on it, to have a direct path to the circuitry inside.Ok so, how did it work out? The tube lit right up without any flickering or vibration (hum?) noise. My aquarium is 24" inches high. The light is bright enough to properly illuminate the substrate. It works very well for my application. I would certainly recommend it for this or any other application where you can make the necessary modifications to the fixture.

I needed to upgrade my florescent lights to LED. These looked perfect until I tried to install them. My mistake, but these 24" bulbs cannot fit into my 18" fixtures.I was able to return them (thank you Amazon) and get the right size. Now I do have LED lights under my counter, just not with this (too long) bulbs. Again, it was my fault for ordering the wrong length.

Bright and white. These replace the fluorescent bulbs in my bathroom fixture beautifully.I was tired of buying finicky fluorescent bulbs for the fixture in my bathroom. The bulbs were an unusual size, 3', and didn't really last all that long. Plus one would go out, which meant both would go dim and I'd have too fool around with them to figure out which bulb was at fault. Sometimes the bulb just wasn't seated correctly.These bulbs were the same price as fluorescent, will arguably last much longer and be more reliable, and won't need to be recycled as hazardous waste, like fluorescent bulbs do because of the mercury vapor inside. I wired around the high voltage ballasts by just wiring directly to the AC line that feeds the fixtures, and they worked a treat. One pin on one side of the bulb is hot, the other is neutral. It doesn't seem to matter which is which, nor does it matter which of the two pins on a single side are wired to the AC as both pins on a side are ganged together inside the bulb. So long as you have a very basic understanding of AC wiring it's pretty hard to get it wrong when wiring these up. I had two fixtures, 4 bulbs total, and it was no problem.

Good packaging, brighter lighting, fast delivery and very easy to install. Couldn’t ask for better

After returning several sets of a different sellers "plug and play" tube lights which did not work, I decided to remove the ballast on my own and give these a try. I have no skills. I turned off the power to the kitchen and made sure the switches were all off. Then I followed the the picture here which shows you how the wires connect once you snip the ballast out. My wire colors were a little different so I looked it up on the internet to be sure.Once I got done with snipping the ballast wires and connected the ends of my tube light fixture to the correct wires coming in (blue to white and black to red), I powered back on and Holy bright! Our kitchen has never been this bright! My white appliances look white again. I also just left the ballast in since it was screwed in and out of the way.Note. We have a very small kitchen that initially had 3 tube lights. There is no way we could put 3 back in or we'd feel like we were on the sun. 1 of these new led tube lights was more than enoughLove them! Give it a try if you are thinking about it. It's worth it in my opinion. My other 3 lights will probably last me a lifetime!

GOOD KITCHEN LIGHT

These lights are very bright and put out a good amount of light.