What did cowboys eat on the range? It's doubtful their "chuck" much resembled the lively fare offered by restaurateur Tom Perini in Texas Cowboy Cooking, a collection of 75 recipes from the Perini Ranch Steakhouse. That said, the dishes, which include the likes of Black Bean and Roasted Corn Salad, Oven Roasted Beef Brisket, and Jessica's Favorite Green Chili Hominy, are just the thing when the call of meat and Tex-Mex seasoning can't be denied. Illustrated with color photos throughout, the book provides a big-food journey, noting en route the Texas lore that gives it context. Most readers will probably pass on the Calf Fries, a local delicacy the author hardly admits are made from beef testicles. But when Perini talks steak--offering useful cut information and such tempting dishes as a Spicy Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Garlic-Horseradish Cream, Round Steak Rolls, and Laredo Broil, a superior version of marinated flank steak--you'll want to pay attention. Other standouts include an exemplary Texas Chili, Winter Squash Soup, Grilled Sourdough with Texas Onion Butter (a recipe for the bread is included), Carrots with Bourbon Sauce, and the fancier Celebration Venison with Ginger and Wine. Desserts aren't neglected, and simple sweets like Grandmother's Pound Cake, Jane's Sweet Potato-Pecan Pie, and Bread Pudding with Whisky Sauce should put a happy end to whatever appetite is left after a massive Perini spread. With a short but interesting section on cowboy life and informative sidebars (such as Aging Beef), the book provides easily made, easily enjoyed food for millennial buckeroos everywhere. --Arthur Boehm
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