Corefix AIR Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixing for Flat Screen TVs, Radiators, Wall Cabinets & Shelving | 24 Trade Box

I have use these extensively and they are excellent! My experience is as follows: take it slow and gentle! Note the screws are 6mm diameter, check the holes in your fitting can accommodate the screw size, you may need to gently open up the bracket hole with a 6mm metal drill to ensure a good fit.1) Always, Always, Always check with a cable pipe detector before you drill into a 'dot and dab' or plasterboard wall suspended on wooden battens. Invest in cable detector to avoid nasty surprises and disasters!2) Measure out and mark your holes, carefully drill through the the plaster with an 8mm pointed wood drill (this is sacrificial and will wear down over time).3) Fit an 8mm masonry bit into your drill, use a Core Fix plug to mark off the depth on your drill bit with a piece of masking tape - add a few millimetres4) Using the hole in the plasterboard as a guide; Drill into the solid wall using the 8mm masonry drill. Do not use the hammer function and take it slowly. Only engage the hammer function if you absolutely need to, and then take it very easy! You don't want to create a crater in crumbly block material!5) Check the depth with a plug, ensure it can go the full depth of the hole. Use the drill bit by hand to remove any debris. I use a piece of aquarium plastic tubing, fixed to a vacuum cleaner with tape, to clean the holes6) The plugs have a flange around the entry hole to prevent the plug from disappearing into the drilled hole when you tap in the steel tube. The flange is about 1mm thick. For those applications where it matters, such as curtain pole brackets, where you absolutely need a a flat and flush finish; Trying to hammer it flush may shatter the plaster around the hole which then have to fill and repair. Instead, take a Stanley life (box cutter) and gently shave around the outside of the hole so that the top of the plug will sit flush and level with the surface of the wall. Push the plug in to check if fits, you can used a screw to pull it out if you need to do further drilling to achieve the right depth.7) Finally, when you are happy with the position and depth; in order to ensure a super-secure fit and prevent turning, spread a some grab adhesive on the plug (I use CT1). Push the plug fully in and most importantly leave 24hrs for the adhesive to set.8) When you are happy the plug is secure, either with or without grab adhesive (your decision), tap home the tube and attach your fitting with the screw. I always use a manual screw driver rather than a power tool for final fixing

Great product for mounting things on dot and dab walls. Used for a curtain rail and some cupboards. Very easy to use and feels very sturdy.The plug itself is very wide - the hole is drilled with a 10 mm bit so if you’re hanging something with a small bracket it may show around the edges. The hole needs to be drilled quite deep and getting that depth is a bit marginal with standard drill bits. Consequently had trouble on some getting them flush with the wall.With the screws (5 x 100 mm) provided you can only mount things up to 10 mm thick on the wall but with longer screws (I bought some 5 x 120 mm) you can do up to 30 mm.Overall an easy and sturdy fixing for dot and dab walls. Much stronger than a plasterboard fixing and narrower than a grip-it. Quite pricey compared to other types of fixings but cheaper than employing a handyman.

I have used a lot of these fixings and all successfully. The annoying thing is to keep reminding myself which one does what. You probably don't know if you are drilling into an aerated block except through experience. But I always make sure that the screw is long enough to make the plug grips (you must clean the hole, I use a turkey baster), and have enough for the thickness of the item. I have countersunk thicker items if in doubt. Good Luck.

I bought these for my kitchen cabinets - a bit of overkill perhaps,but better safe than sorry. I ended up hanging a big heavy mirror for a neighbour that really benefited from these. They take a 10mm drill bit and it needs to be pretty long, I was maxing out my long drill bit in my SDS drill, so just bear that in mind - you may need to order another drill bit that is sufficient.Paying £20 for some plastic rawl plugs, long screws and small metal cylinders seems a bit excessive, but they do really do the job and they aren't something you use everyday, so I guess I can understand the mark-up

Living in a new-ish house with dot and dab exterior walls, fitting anything heaver than a picture to the wall has always been a real bind. Drilling through plasterboard to the brickwork behind. Then having to knock the rawl plug through to the brickwork, and fix through. Often resulting in the fixing screw bending slightly over time due to the distance between the rawl plug and the face of the plasterboard/item being fixed.This Corefix AIR Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixing has been a game changer. No bending screws. Really easy and simple to use.If you have dot a dab walls and are fitting shelves, TVs, etc these are must. Do follow the instructions and manufacturer advice.

This is a great product if you have dot & dab walls with a substantial gap between the plasterboard and blockwork behind and wanting to fix something heavy not just TV's.I used these for fixing some additional kitchen storage items from Ikea and installing a TV and so simple to use but with giving a robust trust worthy heavy duty fixing.HOWEVER I also bought the normal Corefix fixings (the red ones) and this one as this one states designed for thermolite blocks. BUT from what I can see they are NO DIFFERENT except the rawl plug is blue rather than red.I have also used the standard Corefix in thermolite blockwork with NO ISSUES.So therefore do not be worried what type of blockwork you have or even what type of Corefix fixings you buy as from what I can tell they are both the same just different colours.With that said, GREAT PRODUCT and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.