Fotodiox58mm Macro Reverse Adapter for Mounting Lenses with 58mm Filter Threads on Canon EOS EF/EF-s Cameras

This works exactly as described... you can mount your lens backwards and get extreme magnification from your normal lens. If you want to experiment with this, do a little research ahead of time so you know what to expect and what not to expect. I used my kit 18-55 lens on my Canon Rebel. My first attempt gave me an idea of the strength of the magnification but I didn't love the results. The problem was that I was trying to shoot with the lens wide open and hand held, with the ISO cranked up. This resulted in a depth of field so shallow that it was almost impossible to focus.For the second attempt, I set the lens to f22, didn't try to zoom in as close, and used a table top mini tripod so I could leave my ISO at 100. The exposure time was about 8 seconds with this approach and the results were much better.Pros: Convert a kit lens into a very powerful macro lens. Good fit. My kit lens isn't real heavy, but I never had any fear that it was in danger of falling off the camera due to being mounted backwards. If you have a heavy lens, just keep in mind that you are supporting the weight of the lens by the filter threads. Keep in mind that a shorter focal length gives you more magnification, so if you have a 35 or 50mm prime, you should have a good lens to start experimenting with.Cons: Well, there a lot of them, but I'm more than happy to put up with them, when you look at the cost vs. the results. BTW, this approach was recommended to me by a professional photographer who has several reversing rings for his macro work. So unless you are publishing prints for editorial work, this should be fine for web view or small prints.Here are some things to keep in mind:- You need a very firm setup where neither the camera nor subject is moving. (If you want to photo insects, they'll have to be dead ones.)- The "business" end of the lens is exposed, so you'll want to keep that rear lens cap handy (because now it's a front lens cap). And if you want to leave the lens in this state off the camera, you will need to buy yourself a spare rear lens cap.- The zoom is completely reversed, so 18mm will give you about 3x more magnification than 55mm.- Focus is very sensitive due to the shallow depth of field. Not only that, it's affected by three things: Your zoom setting on the lens (if you are using a zoom), your focus setting on the lens, and the distance between the lens and subject.- The field of view can be dark, blurry, and extremely limited, so it's easy to get "lost" when trying to focus in on your target. I found it helpful to point at the end of my target with my finger (which usually shows up as a big blurry shadow) and then follow that to the end to find where the target is.- With an automatic lens, you will need to first mount the lens in the normal orientation, set the aperture with the camera, then press the DOF preview button on your camera WHILE you remove the lens. This will leave the lens set at the aperture you dialed in (otherwise it reverts back to wide-open when you remove it). For this macro work, you'll need to stop down pretty far. I went with f22 to get a DOF range of about a quarter inch.- When screwing the adapter onto the filter threads of the lens, make sure it is fairly tight, otherwise when you go to remove the lens from the camera, the adapter will start to unscrew.- You have to shoot in manual mode so you can make sure that you have the right exposure. (There's no communication between the lens and camera, so the camera has no idea what the lens aperture is set to.)- Focus is by far the biggest challenge, you need to be able to slightly (and I mean very slightly) nudge the camera or target closer or farther apart in order to fine tune to get the focus you need. You will not be able to use the focus on the lens itself for these adjustments, it's THAT sensitive. You can search the web for focus rails, and some people have made their own.- The quality you get from this approach won't be as good as what you get with a real macro lens. But I didn't have $400 to throw at a macro lens, and I DID have $10 to try this out. For me, it was worth it just to explore this aspect of photography without the huge investment.

In short, This did exactly what I wanted it to. it allows me the use of my old FD mount lenses on a EOS/EFS body, and does an extremely good job at it. construction of it is solid no looseness at all. have had no problem mounting any lens to it. I would buy again and have already recommended it to my friends with the same interest.In more detail, This adaptor does exactly what it said it would. the instructions were very clear. and packed very nicely. it's compact enough to take next to no room in any camera bag. and the thing I was most concerned about, I've read advisories about these adapters (Not this brand but as a whole) blocking the mirror from flipping properly from being too close into the body. This one did not have that problem at all. Another concern was it's ability to support weight. the old FD lenses were not lite being made of glass and metal, but this has been no problem at all I've had a telephoto hooked up to it without any concern of it falling off or worse yet damaging the mount's on the camera body. as I said at the start the adapter is made very well. of nice metal and glass there is nothing on it at all that would make me feel like it was cheap. If I could change one thing it would be the color. the bright blue ring stands out like a sore thumb. but hey you're taking pictures of other things so in the long run it does not matter how it looks doing it.As you could imagine using a FD lens you'll lose all your snazzy features that the lenses of today offer you. there is no image stabilizer so for someone like me that's a little of a set back I can tend to bump the camera at times so a tripod is almost a must, there is no autofocus it's all done by manual (I mainly shoot with MF at any rate though) aperture is semi manual. you do have the ability to set the light sensitivity of your camera and than adjust the lens aperture but that leads into a trick I'll detail in a second, as a whole this is a amazing adapter that I wont be without from now on. it allows me to use all the lenses my grandfather's and uncle gave me rather letting them just become forgotten about.Depending on how your lenses were taken care of they might need to be taken in for cleaning. the ones I have gotten were always kept in a thermal camera bag and never bothered so they're great. but a lot of them have dust even meldo in them. don't let this put you off. they can be cleaned and brought back to their youth by a professional and still more cost effective than buying that lens new. different lenses are different quality. I've had amazing luck with my 70-200, 35-105, and 100 macro, but had a little bit of a love loss with a 50MM prime. it just was not as clear as I wanted it, this is in no way due to the adaptor however it's a factor of the lens itself. but the reason I brought it up is to say one lens may look bad but don't knock this adapter for that, try again and see if you can get better results.That pretty much wraps up my review of this adapter I'll now go over the trick, I found that adjusting the "Install" ring can allow you to manually over ride the aperture of the lens. I found often times when the picture was just too dark and turning your shutter time to 30 seconds didn't do much either. that turning the ring back towards the install mark would allow the image to brighten up substantially, being that the ring is free turning there are no clicks it's a great way to get that perfect brightness just like using a dimmer knob. when I get the chance I'll be uploading pictures I've taken with this and the lens used. hope I was able to answer some questions and should you have any further questions or just want to discuss it over all before buying feel free to let me know I'll be more than happy to go over it with you.