Vera Control VeraLite-US Smart Home Controller Hub, Green and White

The product isn't perfect, but I have to give it 5 stars because it's the only z-wave controller for the mass market that actually works properly. Lutron is what I don't consider mass market... that's beyond most people's budgets.I've tried 2 other competing products - InControl (a Windows app coupled with an Aeon 2 stick), then separately the SmartThings Hub. I struggled and struggled continuously with the InControl server (a Windows app), and it just kept on crashing or malfunctioning. They'd roll out an upgrade, it would fix one thing, and break something else. I tried it for nearly 2 years, spent tons of time on it, and finally gave up. SmartThings I tried for literally 1 day and gave up almost immediately. First of all there are major usability bugs in the setup process, and I discussed them in detail with SmartThings tech support. But then there's a major design flaw (missing feature) - the fact that the SmartThings hub is not battery powered nor has WiFi. This means that the hub needs to be connected to both the power cable and ethernet cable while being hauled around the house while you pair it with light switches. Dealing with 100-foot ethernet cables was a deal-breaker for me, so I returned the hub. Besides, their interface was still problematic in my opinion.VeraLite was a BREEZE to set up, and everything worked flawlessly right out of the box. It's battery powered, so I can carry it around the house to pair with light switches. I didn't encounter a single bug. Disclaimer: I am a software developer, so kinda techie, but again - those other 2 controllers failed miserably for me, while the VeraLite worked perfectly. I spent no more than half an hour or so (ok, maybe an hour) figuring everything out and setting up all the nuts and bolts of my scenes, schedules, etc).At the time of writing, I've been using this for a month, and so far no issues whatsoever. No glitches, no outages, everything just works!

Read this: If you’re buying a Schlage Deadbolt BE369 with the VeraliteI like this system. But setup can be a nightmare or a snap. Read my installation comments below to avoid potential hassles.I bought the Nexia Home Security kit and the Veralite Z Wave controller. I did so because of the complaints and costs I read about the Nexia service.Here’s what you need to know. Buying, installing, and setting up these devices is easy — as in “it should be”. The problem is, the instructions for both devices are a bit confusing, and, little events can occur that can cause you hours of problem solving. Here’s what I mean.The Nexia Home Security kit comes with the BE369 deadbolt, a wireless bridge, and a Z-Wave lighting module. The instructions for installation were for a different lock. I called Nexia about this and they sent the correct installation instruction to me via Email.Lesson #1:Make sure you get what you ordered. Amazon fulfillment doesn’t ship boxes from Nexia unopened. Sometimes they open and install items in boxes items. My guess is this stems partially from returns where they have to check out and repackage items. All of this assumes the Nexia comment to me about Amazon opening up boxes is true.Next, there was an installation problem. The lock would fit in my doorway hole, but, the fit was so tight that the keyway shaft would not rotate to open or close the lock. It took me about 3 hours of labor to chisel out a larger latch way space and to increase the circumference of the whole so the lock would fit and the keyway shaft would work.Lesson #2:I had my renovator come over and help with this one. He does this work all of the time.When you open the box, the lock could fall out onto a table or floor disbursing pieces all over the place. This happened to me. What I didn’t know, and, what installation drawings do not show, is the keyway shaft has a “T” at one end and a straight shaft at the other end. Since I don’t set up these locks every day, I wasn’t sure which end faced in which direction. I finally figured it out.Lesson #3:The “T” end fits in the outside portion of the lock (the outdoor keypad side). You push it in to slot and make sure it’s in place. You’ll feel and hear it click. There’s a locking washer inside that holds it in place. This information was NOT in the instructions.When you’re ready to attach the backplate to the door and connect it to the front plate, make sure the wire from the front plate runs through the door hole unpinched and unobstructed and COMES OUT OF the backside of the backplate BEFORE you bolt both sections together. There’s an opening in the backplate where you an insert the wire.Lesson #4:Remember I said the lock pieces fell out when I opened the box? Well, I didn’t know about this wire threading issue until I called Nexia. This arrangement not only prevents wire pinching, but it allows you to see the wiring is connected correctly before you bolt the two pieces together. It’ll save you hours of head scratching time when you’re trying to pair the wireless bridge with the lock.With these steps complete, you can program the lock “manually” — that is to say — by hand. But you can’t program it remotely until you “pair” the wireless bridge with the lock.Next, connect your Veralite or Nexia bridge to a network and download a firmware update. Both will ask you to set up an account. Do that. You will not be billed by Nexia until you set up and pair all devices first.Lesson: #5Logically, you’d think the batteries that come with these wireless bridges are for power backups. But they are not. The only purpose of the batteries is to give you portable power to walk around your house so you can pair the controller with devices.You put a battery (or batteries depending on whether you’re using the Nexia wireless bridge or the Veralite) into the wireless bridge and walk over to the lock and follow the pairing sequence. The process is essentially the same for the Veralite and the Nexia bridge, but the procedure before that is a bit different (in that Nexia wants you to create an account and download firmware first).Both Nexia and Veralite (Micasaverde) use a different term for pairing — I forget what it is — but it isn’t intuitive or correct. I pity a user where English is a second language calling in on the customer support line for either company,Walk your Veralite attached to wire power (not battery) over to your lock. In my case I had to use an extension cord. Follow the pairing instructions. Once the Schlage light is green on your lock, you’re done!If it doesn’t work, use the “-“ sign to unpair the unit with the controller, and then following the pairing sequence as ordered.With the BE369 lock, the steps are:Push the “+” button on your wireless bridge (the Veralite or the Nexia);Enter the programming code on the lock;Wait for 3 beeps and flashes of the Schlage button (they’re simultaneous)Push the Schlage buttonPush 0The Schlage button will flash, as will a light on the controller. If the Schlage button flashes a solid green, your done.Lesson #6Remember to unpair devices after an unsuccessful attempt.Errata:Nexia support was, by far, better and more professional than the micasaverde support (for the Veralite). Their response was timely, and, advice was terrific.The Veralite rep could barely speak English.The Veralite dashboard is a bit confusing. But after you play around with it a bit, you’ll notice it works fine. It recognized the BE369 instantly, and, I was able to program it quickly from afar.It presents a view showing the lock as in a locked or unlocked state. This view didn’t change whether the door was locked or not. I’m not sure what this means. Also, this view implies you can unlock or lock the door from afar. I’m not sure this is the case. When I issue an unlock command, I hear the lock moving, but the deadbolt does not withdraw. The reverse is the same.It may be the 9V battery isn’t powerful enough to enforce these commands. I don’t know — I have to check into this,