Edge Supply Birch 3/4” X 250' Roll of Plywood Edge Banding – Pre-glued Real Wood Veneer Edging – Flexible Veneer Edging – Easy Application Iron-on Edge Banding for Furniture Restoration

Much better than the big box store stuff, works out way cheaper, 250 ft for 40$ vs 9$ for 25ft, this is thinner, but if you are doing alot of banding you get more accurate as you go along.I noticed this also trims up nicer than the cheaper stuff, still cut against the grain to stop tearing, but cuts cleaner regardless.

Great quality product and you get more by 2x for the price than any of the big box stores....

I've been woodworking for over 30 years and a DIYer for as long as I can remember (starting with my Dad), but I've never used veneer edge banding before. I normally use solid hardwoods, but I have to make ~20 kitchen drawers, so I'm opting for baltic birch plywood instead (for speed and wood stability). After researching a little I opted to get the 3/4" banding for 5/8" plywood. I can always trim off a little, but I can't add. Plus, I wasn't sure if the banding would slide around during the heat transfer phase, which it didn't.The 250' roll was a good deal and was a much better value than the smaller sizes. Of course for me, I have to make ~20 drawers, so I'll go though most of this roll. When the banding arrived I noticed that the sticker said "253 ft.", BONUS. Not a lot, but it's better than getting less. The banding width varied a little, but some of the wider parts were ~0.762" (see photo).I slightly oversized the length that I needed for each drawer side and placed the banding (glue side down, LOL) on the edge of the plywood, trying to center it since the banding was wider than the plywood (by intention). I used our iron (I'll have to get a cheap iron for veneering the rest) and set the temperature just under "wool". I placed the iron on one end and slowly moved it to the other end, then I doubled back a little quicker a few times for good measure. The bond seems really good. I then used a edge banding tool to trim the veneer to the correct size with no issues or tear-outs. I trimmed the ends with a flat cutting pliers, but a chisel would also work well (turn the piece over and push down on the chisel against the end piece of veneer when it's against a solid surface).Overall, I like the veneer and it did a good job.

I’m an experienced wood worker and have used edge banding on many projects. Recently I tried a slightly less expensive brand from Amazon; it was junk!!!…very poor adhesion due to little or no glue, very thin veneer that burned easily with medium heat of the iron, and in areas where there was enough glue, the veneer was so flimsy that I couldn’t keep it aligned anywhere near the edge of the board; it slid from side-to-side while I was trying to iron it onto the board edge, and because the veneer was so thin I couldn’t push it back into place without cracking or bending over the edge. Enough about the junk product…I’ve used Edge Supply edge banding before and was very happy with it, so I went back to Edge Supply and bought this 50’ roll of birch edge banding. Edge Supply really does provide the best value in edge banding. The wood veneer is very good quality, and glue/adhesion is excellent. However, be aware that there are several finger splices throughout the 50’ roll, but they are a perfect fit and nearly invisible if you use a natural finish. If you’re using a dark stain, this will make the splices more visible.

works great. no issues with product.

First time using this edge banding. Worked out well and went on easy. Appears to be sticking on well and was easy to iron on. Will definitely buy again when I’m out.

I’m a wood artist and sometimes need to tidy up a birch plywood backer that is an odd shaped or not framed. This banding adhered to the plywood well. Just make sure to unravel from the center so it doesn’t unravel everywhere!

This is good quality edge banding. Pay close attention to the width measurement of the edge banding VS the width needed for your project. This edge banding is not ideal for 3/4” projects. If your an expert, you may be able to pull a 3/4” project off, but there is absolutely zero hang off (see photo). My project is 1/2” MDF I will be veneering in lays to for use as samples. This edge banding works perfect and the corners glue up seamlessly.Some reviews complain the glued together pieces are obvious or spaced too close together, making the edge banding difficult to work with, or unusable.1.) All edge banding this length will have many glued together pieces. There will never be a 250 foot tree cut and milled specifically to create edge banding.2.) Where this edge banding is glued together, it is a very wide zig zag, about 1” (see photo), and not obvious until you put the banding to your face and search for it. In the photo you can see the glue up on the raw edge banding. I had to get in some good lighting and tilt the banding at an angle to make the glue up obvious. After the edge banding has been glued & lightly sanded with a flat block (emphasis on LIGHTLY), using 400, 600, or 800 grit sand paper, its impossible to spot (see photo with my finger pointing to a glue spot that cannot be seen). The only issue you may have with the glue section being problematic is if you do not use something between your iron and the edge banding. If you apply banding with a lot of pressure, as with all banding, some glue may rise up to the surface. This can make the surface just sticky enough to catch film or dirt off of the iron...the dirt On the iron is the problem, not the edge banding. Recommend using wax paper between iron and banding for glue ups. When the wax paper has been used several times, replace it with a fresh piece.3.) I measured multiple areas to find the length between glue ups. My roll had glue ups, each one exactly as shown in the photo, around every 4 feet, pretty standard for this size roll.All in all, this is good quality edge banding at an exceptional value. The price of this edge banding will buy you 25’-50’ at the big box stores.RECOMMENDED